Olympics Diary: Sport Climbing Event

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The sport climbing event at the Olympics made its debut at the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympics, held in 2021 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The event included a combined format that consisted of three disciplines: speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing. Here’s a breakdown of these disciplines:

  1. Speed Climbing: Climbers race against each other on a standardized 15-meter wall to see who can reach the top the fastest.
  2. Bouldering: Climbers try to complete as many fixed routes on a 4.5-meter wall as possible within a given time. These routes, or "problems," are shorter and focus on power and technique.
  3. Lead Climbing: Climbers attempt to climb as high as possible on a wall over 15 meters within a specified time limit. Unlike speed climbing, the route is not standardized and varies in difficulty.

The combined format means that each climber competes in all three disciplines, and their final score is determined by multiplying their rankings in each event (i.e., 1st place in speed, 2nd in bouldering, and 3rd in lead would result in a score of 6). The climber with the lowest combined score wins.

This combined event was a point of some controversy and discussion among climbers and fans, as the three disciplines test very different skills. However, the format was chosen to fit the limited number of medal events available for the sport's Olympic debut.

For the Paris 2024 Olympics, the format has been adjusted. There will be separate events for speed climbing and a combined event for bouldering and lead climbing, which aligns more closely with how these disciplines are typically practiced in non-Olympic competitions. This change is likely in response to feedback from the climbing community and aims to provide a fairer and more exciting competition format.

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